Dutch "courage"
In 1642 a Dutchman called Abel Tasman sailed close to New Zealand's South Island, but scarpered without setting foot on the island once the Maori had killed a few of his crew. Pah! What was needed was a tough Yorkshireman (albeit over a hundred years later). Cookie is our hero, Cookie is our hero, la la la la... That's enough history. Anyway, Abel Tasman managed to get his name on a National Park in the north west of the South Island, and we went there to kayak and - yes, we are approaching middle age - to hike. The scenery wasn't quite as impressive as on the Marlborough Sounds, but there were intriguing challenges like tidal estuary crossings. Here, we wisely heeded the sign and made ourselves a good old cuppa.

On the last day we swapped boots for a paddle, saw loads of seals, none of whom would pose for a picture, and Split Apple rock, which was more amenable.


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